The shower went cold, the pressure dropped to a whisper, and then nothing. When your well pump quits, it’s not an inconvenience—it’s a full-stop emergency. Laundry piles up, livestock go thirsty, and the house grinds to a halt. In rural homes, your well system is the heart of daily life. As PSAM’s technical advisor, I’ve walked into hundreds of basements in exactly this moment—and I’ve seen how the right system prevents the next crisis.
Meet the Villalobos family. Daniel Villalobos (39), a veterinary tech who works rural calls, and his partner, Samira (37), a middle school math teacher, live on six acres outside Walla Walla, Washington. Their 280-foot private well fed a busy household: two kids—Maya (10) and Tristan (7)—plus a small garden and weekend visitors. After a budget-brand 1 HP pump failed mid-laundry cycle for the second time in four years, their water was gone for 36 hours. The diagnosis? Grit damage and short-cycling cooked the motor. Daniel and Samira switched to a Myers Predator Plus Series 1.5 HP with a Pentek XE motor, and that decision changed their water story.
This guide distills what I walked them through—practical, field-tested steps to diagnose issues and keep your system running strong. We’ll cover stainless construction advantages, motor protection, staging and pressure, wiring troubleshooting, sizing to TDH, and the must-do installation checks that separate eight-year systems from 20-year performers. We’ll also show where Myers outpaces common competitors and why PSAM backs these pumps for emergencies with same-day shipping.
Awards and reasons to trust: Myers’ Predator Plus Series delivers 80%+ efficiency at BEP, a Made in USA build with UL/CSA certifications, a 36-month warranty, and Pentair engineering behind every unit. That’s why I put Myers at the top of Rick’s Picks. Now let’s get your water back on—and keep it on.
#1. Myers Predator Plus Stainless Platform – 300 Series Stainless Steel, Threaded Assembly, and Field Serviceable Performance
When you’re troubleshooting, start by trusting the platform. A durable pump body and serviceable assembly reduce failure points and make fixes straightforward.
The Myers Predator Plus Series uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, coupling, and suction screen. That choice matters. Submerged components face constant exposure to minerals, acidic pH, and grit—stainless resists corrosion that eats weaker materials. The threaded assembly keeps the pump field serviceable: you can replace stages, swap a worn intake screen, or service the internal check valve without trashing a good motor. Engineering details like nitrile rubber bearings and engineered composite impellers maintain tight clearances so efficiency stays high and startup amps stay predictable. When paired with the Pentek XE motor, thermal protection and high thrust bearings absorb axial loads from multi-stage pressure without premature wear.
Real-world example: Daniel and Samira’s old pump had a seized lower bearing and a cracked thermoplastic screen. Their Myers submersible well pump now pulls clean, steady flow, and they can service wear items as needed instead of replacing the whole stack.
Stainless Steel vs Corrosion
Acidic water or high iron content accelerates cast iron decay. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and scale binding in the bowl assembly, keeping stage clearances intact, which preserves GPM and pressure over years. You’ll see fewer amperage spikes and less heat.
Threaded Assembly for On-Site Repairs
A field serviceable threaded design lets a qualified contractor disassemble stages, replace a wear ring, and inspect the shaft without special tooling. That’s real-world savings and less downtime.
Intake Protection and Check Valve Integrity
A clean intake screen and healthy internal check valve prevent backflow and sand ingress that shred impellers. If pressure bleeds off fast, start by testing the check valve; it’s often a 20-minute fix.
Key takeaway: Start with a platform designed to be serviced. That’s your first line of defense against repeat failures.
#2. Pentek XE Motor Health Checks – Thermal Overload Protection, Lightning Protection, and Amperage Diagnostics at 230V
Motor troubleshooting is all about data. Pull amp readings, verify voltage, and let protections work for you—not against you.
The Pentek XE motor on your Myers water pump is a high-thrust, single-phase workhorse with thermal overload protection and lightning protection baked in. It’s designed for deep wells and multi-stage loads, delivering stable torque with controlled heat rise. Check the nameplate for full-load amps and compare with your clamp meter at startup and recovery. For 1 HP at 230V, expect 7–9 amps typical; for 1.5 HP, 10–12 amps depending on head. Elevated amps indicate impeller drag, sand ingestion, or partial voltage; low amps may point to dry-run conditions or a blocked discharge. Always test at the pressure tank tee while cycling under load.
Daniel’s old motor pulled 14 amps on a 1 HP label and tripped the breaker intermittently. The XE motor on his new setup runs a steady 10.6 amps at 55 psi cut-out—heat is in check and startup is clean.
Thermal Overload and Reset Behavior
If the motor stops and restarts after cooling, thermal overload protection triggered for a reason: low voltage, clogged intake, or dry well. Correct the cause before reapplying sustained demand.
Lightning Protection Checks
Transient spikes can scar windings. The XE’s lightning protection helps, but add surge protection at the service panel. Inspect for brown discoloration on splice kits—heat damage is a red flag.
Amperage Draw vs Pump Curve
Match observed amps with the pump curve. Amps too high at your TDH means the pump is working off-BEP and wasting energy—often incorrect sizing or discharge restrictions.
Key takeaway: Measure, don’t guess. A Pentek XE tells you what’s wrong through amps and temperature.
#3. Stage Wear and Sand Troubleshooting – Teflon-Impregnated Staging, Self-Lubricating Impellers, and Grit Control
Pressure loss over weeks often points to stage wear. Abrasive water chews up impeller edges and diffusers, cutting pressure long before a motor fails.
Myers combats this with Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers made from engineered composites. These materials run cooler under load and resist grit abrasion that would score metal or cheap thermoplastics. When impellers keep their edges, you keep your GPM rating and pressure. Paired with a clean intake screen and a properly set torque arrestor, vibration is minimized and shaft alignment remains true, extending bearing life.
For the Villalobos well, seasonal drawdowns pulled silt after heavy irrigation weekends. The Predator Plus staging held its tolerances; after a filter change and adding a sediment trap at the tank tee, pressure returned to normal.
Symptoms of Stage Wear
Sluggish recovery to cut-out, longer shower pressure dips, and creeping amp draws point to worn impellers or sand scoring. Check downstream filters for fine grit—if you find it, your stages are taking abuse.
Sand Mitigation Steps
Install a sediment filter after the pressure tank, not before. Consider raising the pump 10–15 feet off bottom, and confirm the drop pipe and safety rope aren’t stirring the column.
When to Replace vs Repair
Thanks to the threaded assembly, replacing a worn stage stack is viable. If the motor tests good and bearings are quiet, a stage rebuild can save thousands.
Key takeaway: Protect the stages, and your pressure stays honest year after year.
#4. Smarter Sizing with TDH – Match Horsepower, Stages, and Best Efficiency Point to Real Demand
Wrong size, wrong result. Oversize a pump and you short-cycle; undersize it and you cook the motor trying to meet demand.
Total Dynamic Head ( TDH) equals static water level + drawdown + friction losses + desired pressure (psi x 2.31). Now match that to the pump curve of a multi-stage pump at your target GPM rating. Most homes thrive on 8–12 GPM; irrigation or livestock can push you to 15–20 GPM. The Predator Plus lineup spans 1/2 HP through 2 HP with shut-off heads from 250 to 490 feet. Place your operating point near the best efficiency point (BEP); that’s where the 80%+ hydraulic efficiency and long life live.
Daniel’s 280-foot well needed 55 psi at the house with 9–10 GPM during peak use. We selected a 1.5 HP model with a curve that lands at BEP around 320–340 feet TDH, giving him headroom for seasonal drawdown.
Calculating Friction Loss
Add friction from 1-1/4" NPT drop pipe, elbows, and check valves. For 10 GPM over 280 feet, friction can add 15–25 feet of head depending on pipe material and fittings.
Pressure Switch Strategy
A 40/60 pressure switch works well for most homes. Make sure the pump curve can deliver your GPM at 60 psi + elevation. Don’t chase pressure with undersized HP.
Staging for Precision
More stages equal more head per HP. Choose the stage count that meets TDH at your GPM target, not just the biggest motor available.
Key takeaway: Put your operating point on the curve, not on hope. That’s how you build a 15-year system.
#5. Electrical and Control Basics – 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Well Pump, Control Boxes, and Reliable Splices
Electrical faults masquerade as pump failures. Before pulling a unit, test wiring, switches, and splices.
Myers offers both 2-wire configuration and 3-wire configuration pumps. Two-wire units have the start components built into the motor—clean, simple installs and fewer points of failure. Three-wire systems use an external control box with start capacitor and relay, which is great for diagnostics and easy component swaps. Either way, verify 230V at the pressure switch and control box under load, not just at idle. And inspect every wire splice kit below the well cap; poor splices wick water, corrode, and drive up resistance, which torches motors over time.
The Villalobos upgrade stayed with a 2-wire pump to simplify future service. We replaced a sun-baked pressure switch and re-terminated a scorched splice. Their voltage held steady afterward.
When to Choose 2-Wire
For straightforward installs and fewer parts to stock, 2-wire makes sense. Fewer connections, less troubleshooting, and often lower upfront cost.
When 3-Wire Helps
If you want external start component access for quick capacitor swaps, a 3-wire plus control box shines. Contractors love the diagnostic speed.
Splice and Grounding Best Practices
Use heat-shrink, adhesive-lined splice kits. Confirm proper ground continuity from panel to motor shell. Loose grounds invite nuisance trips and surge damage.
Key takeaway: Solid power and clean splices keep your motor cool and your downtime rare.
#6. Pressure Tank and Cycling – Correct Air Charge, Tank Sizing, and Check Valve Placement
Short-cycling is the silent killer. It overheats motors, hammers plumbing, and slashes lifespan.
Your pressure tank must be sized to flow at least one minute of drawdown at your pump’s output. Pre-charge should be 2 psi below the cut-in pressure (e.g., 38 psi for 40/60). A bad bladder or waterlogged tank forces rapid cycling, which cooks windings. Check check valve placement, too: primary at the pump and, in most residential systems, avoid additional line check valves unless needed for long uphill runs. Extra checks can trap pressure and cause odd cycling behavior.
Daniel’s system had a 20-gallon equivalent tank feeding a 10 GPM demand. We upsized to a 44-gallon tank and set pre-charge correctly. Cycling calmed down immediately.
Diagnosing a Tired Tank
If the pump kicks on with tiny draws, test tank air charge with water drained. If water spurts from the air valve, the bladder is ruptured.
Proper Check Valve Strategy
One solid internal check valve at the pump is standard. Additional checks only when design demands—never as a band-aid for leaks.
Pressure Switch Calibration
With power off, confirm cut-in/cut-out with a liquid-filled gauge. A sticky switch will burn contacts and drive erratic cycling.
Key takeaway: Control cycling, and you control heat. Heat is the enemy of electric motors.
#7. Installation Details That Prevent Callbacks – Pitless Adapter, Torque Arrestor, Cable Guard, and Drop Pipe Discipline
Half of “pump problems” start at installation. Tidy installs run cooler, resist vibration, and are easier to service.
Always mount to a quality pitless adapter with proper seals. Install a torque arrestor just above the pump to dampen startup twist, and add a cable guard every 10–20 feet to prevent wire chafe against the casing. Use appropriate drop pipe—sch 120 PVC or poly rated for depth—and secure a safety rope that won’t degrade underwater. A crooked or unsupported column stresses the motor shaft and stages, inviting premature failure and noise.
In the Villalobos well, we found two cable rub points and no torque arrestor. Adding guards and restraining the column stopped startup rattle and stabilized amps by nearly 0.6 A.
Spacing and Supports
Space guards evenly. Keep the column centered in the bore to prevent casing contact. Proper spacing reduces resonance and bearing wear.
Proper Lift and Set Depth
Set the pump 10–20 feet above the well bottom and 15–25 feet below the lowest seasonal water level. Avoid bottom silt and dry-run conditions.
Seal the Top, Not the Bottom
Use a clean well cap and sealed conduit. Up top is where contamination starts, not down at the pump.
Key takeaway: A thoughtful install is cheaper than any warranty claim. Build it right once.
#8. Warranty and Service Confidence – 3-Year Warranty, UL/CSA Certifications, and Made in USA Quality
If you’re troubleshooting a borderline pump, warranty coverage buys you time and confidence to do the job right.
Myers backs the Predator Plus Series with an industry-leading 3-year warranty, far exceeding typical 12–18 month coverage. These pumps are UL listed, CSA certified, and Made in USA—which means consistent build quality and a solid supply chain for parts. At PSAM, we stock common accessories and offer same-day shipping on in-stock pumps, so emergency replacements don’t drag on. When you can pair a robust platform with real warranty protection, you make better choices under pressure.
Daniel liked knowing that if a manufacturing defect surfaced, Myers stood behind the pump for 36 months. That’s peace of mind, especially after two prior failures with short warranties.
What the Warranty Signals
Longer coverage reflects confidence in the platform: stainless assemblies, Pentek XE motor, and composite staging that doesn’t crumble under grit.
Documentation Matters
Record depth, TDH, model, serial, and installation date. Keep photos of splices and pressure switch settings—it simplifies any claim and future service.
PSAM Support and Shipping
When water stops, “in stock” and “ships today” matter as much as horsepower. We prioritize emergency buyers with clear timelines.
Key takeaway: Choose equipment that’s built to last—and actually backed to last.
#9. Field Serviceability vs Dealer Lock-In – Threaded Assembly, On-Site Repair, and Myers vs Franklin/Goulds Comparisons
A pump you can service on-site saves days of downtime and hundreds in labor—especially far from town.
While Franklin Electric offers capable submersibles, many models lean into proprietary control ecosystems that can push you toward dealer networks and specific boxes. Myers’ threaded assembly and balanced staging let qualified contractors open the pump, service components, and reassemble without specialized jigs. And unlike certain Goulds configurations that still use cast iron components prone to corrosion in acidic water, Myers’ 300 series stainless steel resists pitting myers pump dealers and keeps stage clearances consistent. Pair that with the Pentek XE motor and you get efficient thrust handling without hunting for brand-specific electronics.
On the Villalobos job, local availability mattered. We could swap a stage stack and be running the same day. No waiting on a proprietary control to arrive or a dealer to schedule service.
Serviceable Design = Faster Fixes
With a field serviceable pump, bearing checks, diffuser swaps, and screen replacements become routine maintenance rather than a complete teardown.
Corrosion Resistance Pays
If your water leans acidic or carries iron, stainless wins long-term—less binding, less amperage creep, more consistent pressure.
Stock the Right Parts
Keep an extra pressure switch, spare control box (for 3-wire systems), splice kits, and a relief valve on hand. The right bin saves a weekend.
Key takeaway: Serviceability equals uptime. In rural life, uptime is everything—worth every single penny.
#10. Real-World Value: Myers vs Red Lion and Grundfos – Efficiency, Install Simplicity, and Total Cost Over a Decade
When you troubleshoot, you’re not just fixing today’s problem—you’re choosing your next decade of water reliability.
Technically speaking, Myers’ 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP on multi-stage designs squeezes more usable pressure per watt than many mid-range competitors. The Pentek XE motor’s high-thrust bearings and thermal protection handle deep head loads without heat runaway. Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings, by contrast, are more susceptible to stress cracks under pressure cycling and thermal expansion. Grundfos produces strong systems, but many residential configurations favor 3-wire and advanced control ecosystems that add upfront cost.
In application, Myers’ 2-wire options streamline installation and cut $200–$400 on control boxes, perfect for emergency replacements. That’s why contractors appreciate how fast we can land a PSAM kit: pump, pitless adapter, torque arrestor, and wire splice kit ready to drop. Over a 10-year span, consider replacements: Red Lion users frequently report 3–5 year lifespans in challenging water. Myers routinely hits 8–15 years, with well-cared systems going 20–30. Energy savings at BEP stack quietly year after year.
For Daniel and Samira, the numbers were simple: one robust purchase, stable electricity bills, and no mid-summer panic. That’s reliability you can plan on—worth every single penny.
Efficiency Where It Counts
Operating near BEP trims energy use by up to 20% annually. That’s quiet savings—especially on a 1–1.5 HP pump running daily.
Simpler Installs, Faster Water
A solid 2-wire well pump eliminates control box complexity for straightforward residential systems without sacrificing performance.
The Decade Math
One durable pump, not three budget replacements. Add the 3-year warranty, and the total cost of ownership leans hard toward Myers.
Key takeaway: Pay for durability once; save on anxiety every day thereafter.
FAQ: Myers Submersible Well Pump Troubleshooting and Performance
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start by calculating Total Dynamic Head (TDH): static water level + drawdown + friction loss + desired pressure (psi x 2.31). Then pick a pump whose curve delivers your target flow at that TDH. Most homes need 8–12 GPM; irrigation or livestock can require 15–20 GPM. For depths up to ~150 feet, a 1/2 HP or 3/4 HP may suffice; 150–300 feet often calls for 1 HP to 1.5 HP; deeper or high-demand systems might need 2 HP. Use pipe diameter, length, and fittings to estimate friction (often 10–30 feet). Example: A 220-foot water level, 60 psi delivery (138 feet), and 20 feet friction yields ~378 feet TDH. Choose a Myers Predator Plus model whose pump curve shows 10 GPM at ~380 feet, ideally near BEP. Rick’s recommendation: call PSAM with your depth, static water level, and desired GPM—we’ll match you precisely so the motor runs cool and efficient.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
A typical 3–4 person home with two bathrooms is comfortable at 8–10 GPM. Add irrigation zones or livestock and 12–15 GPM becomes practical. Multi-stage designs stack pressure: each stage adds head, so total pressure rises without oversizing horsepower. At a given HP, more stages allow higher shut-off head (250–490 feet across the Predator Plus line). The key is to position your operating point near the pump’s BEP, where hydraulic losses are minimal and temperature stays controlled. If you regularly see pressure dips with simultaneous showers and laundry, the fix is often a higher GPM model at similar HP but different staging. Real-world: For the Villalobos family’s 280-foot well, we targeted ~10 GPM at 55–60 psi, achieved through a 1.5 HP staged configuration landing near BEP to minimize energy use and extend life.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from tight tolerances and smart materials. The Predator Plus uses engineered composite impellers with Teflon-impregnated staging to maintain close clearances that reduce internal recirculation. The 300 series stainless steel bowls resist wear and distortion that would otherwise open gaps and lower efficiency. Pairing with the Pentek XE motor aligns torque delivery to the hydraulic load so amp draw correlates cleanly with curve position. At or near BEP, hydraulic losses are low, motor slip stays modest, and heat rise is controlled. Compared to thermoplastic housings or loose-tolerance stacks, Myers maintains its curve performance longer—meaning your 10 GPM at 60 psi on day one still looks like 10 GPM years later. That stability is why energy savings can hit 15–20% annually over a decade of daily operation.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Underwater metals live a hard life. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting, scaling, and galvanic attack from mineral-rich or acidic water better than cast iron. Corrosion in cast iron roughens flow paths, dragging efficiency and snagging debris; it can bind rotating components, elevating amp draw and heat. Stainless keeps surfaces smooth, preserving stage clearances and pressure output. On service calls, I routinely find cast iron components scarred and swollen in wells with low pH or high iron. Stainless bowls and shafts in Myers pumps stay true, extending bearing life and keeping the motor cool. In a 10-year horizon, that difference isn’t cosmetic—it’s measured in fewer failures, steadier pressure, and lower electricity costs. For deep wells and tough chemistry, stainless is the right tool.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Abrasives attack edges and surfaces. Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers present a low-friction interface, shedding grit while reducing friction heat during startup and runtime. The engineered composite resists micro-chipping along impeller vane edges, so the geometry that creates pressure stays intact. That translates to consistent GPM rating and fewer amp hikes as the pump ages. Combine this with a clean intake screen, proper set height above the well bottom, and post-tank sediment filtration to keep the abrasive load down. In wells like the Villalobos’—where seasonal drawdowns pull silt—Myers staging stands up far better than soft thermoplastics, maintaining performance without eating impellers every couple of summers.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor is designed for multi-stage axial loads. High-thrust bearings distribute upward force evenly across the stack, minimizing wobble and heat. Thermal overload protection prevents sustained overheat cycles from voltage drop or dead-head conditions, and lightning protection shields against transient spikes. Internal efficiencies keep slip low at operating load, so you don’t waste watts as heat. At 230V, you’ll see stable amperage across the cycle—no myers sump pump persistent creep upward as the motor warms. That steadiness is how daily runtime stays cool, which compounds lifespan. In practice, XE motors matched to a properly sized Predator Plus pump curve run quieter and cooler than “standard” motors that lack thrust capacity or thermal controls.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
If you’re comfortable with electrical work, have safe lifting equipment, and understand well construction, a DIY install is possible—especially with a 2-wire well pump and clear PSAM kit components like pitless adapter, torque arrestor, and wire splice kit. You must follow electrical codes, set proper pressure switch and pressure tank pre-charge, and verify seals at the well cap. That said, deep wells, complex drops, or 3-wire/control box diagnostics are best left to licensed pros. Mistakes—like poor splices or wrong set depth—can cost a motor in months. My recommendation: use a licensed installer if your well is >150 feet, your static level is unknown, or you’re unsure on TDH. If you DIY, call PSAM with your specs; we’ll review your plan and parts list so you do it once and do it right.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire configuration contains start components in the motor. It simplifies wiring—fewer connections and no external control box. That’s great for emergency swaps and clean installs. A 3-wire configuration uses an external control box housing a start capacitor and relay, making diagnosis and capacitor replacement easy without pulling the pump. Performance can be identical when properly matched; the choice is about service preferences. For straightforward residential systems, 2-wire keeps costs down and troubleshooting simple. For contractors managing fleets, 3-wire speeds capacitor service. Myers offers both, so you’re not boxed into one path. If your service panel is crowded or you’re in a hurry to restore water, 2-wire is often the faster route.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
Under normal residential duty, 8–15 years is realistic. With excellent care—clean power, proper pressure tank sizing, correct TDH placement, and protection from sand—you can see 20–30 years. The variables that shorten life are predictable: short-cycling, voltage drop, abrasive water, and incorrect staging for the demand. Myers’ 3-year warranty covers early defects; beyond that, the 300 series stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, and Pentek XE motor keep wear slow. I advise annual checks: test pre-charge, inspect splices at the cap, verify cut-in/cut-out, and pull an amp reading under load. If numbers drift, fix the cause before it becomes heat.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Annually: Drain and set pressure tank pre-charge (2 psi below cut-in), inspect pressure switch contacts, check voltage and amp draw at cut-out, and examine splices and grounds at the well cap. Every 2–3 years: Inspect sediment filter post-tank, confirm no new vibration noises at startup, and verify no pressure bleed indicating a leaky check valve. As needed: Adjust irrigation schedules to avoid sucking silt, raise pump off the bottom if grit rises, and re-tension torque arrestor and cable guard spacing after any pull. These simple steps keep heat and grit—the two biggest enemies—out of your motor and staging.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces many brands offering 12–18 months. It covers manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship on the pump end and motor when installed per guidelines. That confidence is supported by UL and CSA certifications and Made in USA build quality. Competitors in the budget tier often cap at one year, leaving owners exposed to early-life failures. In practice, a strong warranty is a signal of durable engineering— 300 series stainless steel, composite staging, and robust windings. Keep your invoice, serials, installation photos, and a brief log of pressure settings and depth so PSAM can expedite support if needed.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Consider three buckets: initial cost, energy, and replacement/repair. Budget pumps might win day one but often last 3–5 years, especially with thermoplastic components that fatigue from pressure cycles. Factor two replacements plus downtime and emergency labor, and the math shifts. Myers Predator Plus typically runs 8–15 years, with 80%+ efficiency at BEP trimming energy 15–20% a year—significant on a 1 HP running daily. Add the 3-year warranty and field serviceable design that avoids full replacements when servicing stages. In the Villalobos case, they avoided a likely third replacement and shaved monthly power draw. Over ten years, Myers isn’t just competitive—it’s the value leader.
Conclusion: The Troubleshooting Mindset That Delivers Water for the Long Haul
Reliable well water isn’t luck. It’s a series of correct choices: stainless where corrosion lurks, staging that shrugs off grit, motors that protect themselves, and installations that respect physics. Myers Pumps—especially the Predator Plus Series—gives you those advantages from day one. Backed by Pentair engineering, UL/CSA certifications, and a 3-year warranty, these pumps work with you when a fix is needed instead of fighting you with proprietary hurdles.
For Daniel and Samira Villalobos, the shift to a Myers submersible well pump ended the emergency cycle and normalized their water life: steady pressure, sane energy bills, and confidence the next hot shower won’t go cold. If you’re facing a similar situation—or want to avoid one—PSAM is ready with same-day shipping, right-sized kits, and real talk on specs that match your well, not a brochure.
Need help sizing a Myers deep well pump, choosing between 2-wire and 3-wire, or matching a pressure tank? Call PSAM. I’ll review your numbers and point you to a setup that’s worth every single penny.