The shower sputtered, the kitchen faucet hissed, and then the pressure gauge dropped flat to zero. No water. Not even a dribble. When a well system goes dark, it’s never at a convenient time—and in most cases the culprit isn’t just the pump, it’s the pit design wrapped around it: wrong pipe size, undersized pressure tank, sloppy check-valve placement, or a control layout that cooked the motor. I’ve seen all of it in the field, and it’s painful because the fix usually isn’t complicated—it’s just technical. Do the pit right and your pump lives long. Miss a detail and you’re pricing emergency replacements.
Two months ago, I worked with the Khurana family—Amit (39), a high school science teacher, and Priya (37), a CPA—on 6 acres outside Corvallis, Oregon. Their 220-foot well feeds their home plus a small garden and drip irrigation for blueberries. Their previous 3/4 HP submersible from a budget brand died mid-laundry day. Post-mortem: a cracked thermoplastic stage stack and a poor pit layout that short-cycled the pump to death. Priya was done with guesswork. They chose a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP, 10 GPM with a proper pit redesign. We focused on friction loss, tank sizing, and wiring runs—and the system’s been rock-solid since.
This guide breaks down the ten pit design decisions that prevent failures and make a Myers system hum:
- GPM and TDH sizing matched to a real-world load profile Stainless steel components where water chemistry punishes cheaper builds Motor and control layout that stays cool and protected Drop pipe, discharge, and fittings sized to curb friction Pressure tank capacity that kills short cycling Check valve locations that prevent water hammer Pitless adapter selection that doesn’t choke flow Electrical and grounding that keeps lightning from ending your weekend Freeze-proofing and drainage that outlasts winters Serviceability features that make maintenance simple
I’m Rick Callahan with PSAM—Plumbing Supply And More. I’ve spent decades in well pits and crawlspaces making bad days better. If you want a system that works quietly for a decade or more, commit to these ten tips and pair them with a Myers Predator Plus. It’s not just the right pump; it’s the right pit.
#1. Start With Load and TDH—Pump Curve Sizing Done Right With Myers Predator Plus, Pump Curve, and TDH
Correct sizing is where every good pit starts. Undersize and you get low pressure and hot motors; oversize and you short-cycle to an early failure.
A Myers Predator Plus Series submersible is a multi-stage pump that produces pressure by stacking stages to lift water against TDH (total dynamic head)—the sum of vertical lift, friction losses, and pressure requirement. I size to the pump curve—not to guesswork. For a typical home, target 7–12 GPM. If irrigation or livestock watering is in the mix, bump that to 12–20 GPM. At a target of 50 PSI at the house (~115 feet of head), add static water level, elevation to the tank, and friction. A properly selected 1 HP Predator Plus can comfortably deliver 10 GPM at 220–280 feet of head depending on staging.
- Khurana’s 220-foot well with 80 feet static water level drop and 50 PSI house pressure penciled out to ~220–240 feet TDH at 10 GPM. A Myers 1 HP 10 GPM hit that BEP sweet spot.
Understand TDH Inputs
Calculate TDH as: static lift + drawdown + elevation to tank + friction loss + pressure requirement (2.31 feet per PSI). Use friction charts for 1-1/4" NPT discharge and long runs. Aim to keep friction under 10% of total head.
Select By BEP, Not Just HP
Match the duty point to the pump’s best efficiency point (BEP) on the curve. Myers Predator Plus pumps operate at 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, reducing heat and extending life.
Account For Seasonal Drawdown
If your aquifer drops 15–30 feet in August, include that. A pump that’s perfect in April can be labored in August without that buffer.
Key takeaway: Nail TDH and GPM, and a Myers Predator Plus works easier, runs cooler, and lasts longer.
#2. Choose Materials That Last—300 Series Stainless, Intake Screen, and Threaded Assembly
Harsh water and pressure cycles will find the weakest link. Your pit design should favor materials that don’t blink at iron, acidity, or grit.
Myers’ 300 series stainless steel shell, shaft, wear ring, discharge bowl, and suction screen give you real corrosion resistance. In pits that see groundwater rise, condensation, or marginal water chemistry, stainless doesn’t pit or flake like cast iron. The threaded assembly on Myers pumps also means you can service components without tossing the entire unit, a huge advantage when you plan for maintenance access in the pit.
For Amit and Priya, lab analysis showed moderate iron and a slightly low pH. Their previous thermoplastic pump stages wore rapidly. With stainless major components and engineered composite impellers, the Predator Plus is built to shrug off that environment.
Why Stainless Beats Cast Iron in Pits
Pits can trap humidity and soil gases. Stainless resists oxidation where cast iron can corrode at fasteners, bowls, and interfaces—risking leaks and contamination.
Service-Friendly Layout
Plan the pit so the discharge, unions, and isolation valves are reachable. Myers’ field serviceable design saves hours when a check valve or splice needs attention.
Intake Screen and Sediment Strategy
Use a bottom intake screen plus external spin-down filter topside if your well produces sand on startup. Protect those impellers and you protect your wallet.
Key takeaway: Build with stainless everywhere you can. It’s a foundation for 8–15 years of service life.
#3. Motor Matters—Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor, Thermal Overload, and 230V Single-Phase
Your pit layout must protect and complement the motor technology you choose. Myers pairs the Predator Plus with the Pentek XE motor, designed for high thrust, efficient torque delivery, and cooler operation.
A 230V single-phase motor draws less amperage than 115V for the same horsepower, which translates to lower heat and less voltage drop on longer runs. The thermal overload protection and lightning protection built into the Pentek XE give a safety margin, but only if the wiring, splices, and grounding in the pit are professionally executed.
The Khuranas had an old undersized wire run to their control equipment. We upsized the conductors to minimize voltage drop and set the control gear above flood level inside a weatherproof enclosure—simple changes that keep motors alive.
Right Voltage, Right Wire
On 230V, many 1 HP submersibles pull 7–10 amps. Use voltage drop calculators and size wire accordingly to the control box, then to the wellhead. Proper gauge equals cooler motors.
Thermal and Surge Defense
Install a dedicated surge protector on the control circuit. Lightning travels; the best motor protection is a layered electrical plan in the pit layout.
Cooling By Design
Even underground, ambient heat rises. Keep control components off the floor, allow airflow, and avoid tight, sealed enclosures that trap heat.
Key takeaway: A Pentek XE motor deserves a clean, cool electrical environment. Design for it.
#4. Pipe Size, Drop Pipe, and Fittings—1-1/4" NPT, Low-Friction Bends, and Pitless Adapter Choice
Hydraulics start at the pump discharge and get better—or worse—at every fitting. Your pit should be laid out to minimize turbulence and friction.
My go-to: 1-1/4" NPT discharge for 10 GPM systems and controlled transitions to the house main. Use sweep 90s or 45s instead of hard 90s. Avoid bushings that neck down too early; step down at the tank tee only if your distribution is 1". The pitless adapter must match your GPM, depth, and freeze line. A restrictive adapter costs you PSI you already paid to develop at the pump.
For Amit and Priya, the oldest offender was a cluster of tight elbows right at the pit exit. We re-piped with long-radius fittings and a full-port isolation valve. Pressure loss dropped, and flow stabilized.
Drop Pipe Material
Schedule 120 PVC or galvanized steel both make sense depending on depth and water chemistry. For 200+ feet, I often spec Schedule 120 PVC with stainless couplings to limit weight and corrosion.
Torque Arrestor and Cable Guard
Install a torque arrestor and cable guard to prevent wire chafe and protect splices. Keep electrical secure and centered away from pipe movement.
Pitless Adapter Sizing
Choose a pitless with the same or larger ID as your drop pipe. Undersized pitless adapters act like a governor—bad for efficiency.
Key takeaway: Smooth, wide, and simple beats complicated and narrow every single time.
#5. Tank Sizing Kills Short Cycling—Pressure Tank, Pressure Switch, and Drawdown Strategy
Short cycling is the silent killer of motors. It’s a pit design problem first and foremost, and the cure is an honest look at pressure tank capacity and switch settings.
Aim for at least 1 minute of runtime per cycle. On a 10 GPM system, that’s 10 gallons of drawdown. A 44-gallon tank gives you roughly 12–14 gallons of drawdown at 40/60 PSI; a 62-gallon gets you even more breathing room. Proper pressure switch setting (often 40/60) with the tank precharge 2 PSI below cut-in is essential.
The Khuranas inherited a 20-gallon tank from a prior owner. We upgraded to a 62-gallon vertical tank, tuned the switch, and their pump stopped pinballing on/off every handwash.
Drawdown Math
Drawdown depends on tank size and pressure range. Larger tanks reduce starts. Starts per day is the metric to watch—lower is longer motor life.
Switch Quality and Location
Use a good switch mounted on a vibration-free tank tee. Keep it accessible, not buried in a corner behind a maze of pipe.
Pressure Range Tuning
If your house is plumbed well, 40/60 is excellent. For older homes with mixed fixtures, 30/50 can reduce nuisance leak cycling. Tune Plumbing Supply and More myers pump for lifestyle and plumbing integrity.
Key takeaway: Give the pump time to run and time to rest. Your motor bearings will thank you.
#6. Check Valves That Behave—Internal Check, External Check Valve, and Water Hammer Control
Check valves are simple until they aren’t. Poor placement invites cycling, water hammer, and backspin.
Most Myers submersible well pumps include an internal check valve. I still place a high-quality external check valve topside at the tank tee or just inside the foundation wall for serviceability and to isolate backflow. Avoid stacking multiple checks in series; two is typically the maximum—one at the pump, one at the surface.
Amit’s old layout had three checks in seven feet. The resulting trapped columns hammered at shutoff. We removed the extras, supported the line, and the banging stopped.
Location, Location
Put the serviceable check where a wrench can reach it without digging. Keep it within a short, straight run to minimize turbulence.
Water Hammer Dampening
Consider a water hammer arrestor if the system includes fast-acting solenoid valves (irrigation zones). Smooth closures equal quiet pipes.
Preventing Backspin
A reliable check saves your motor from reverse spin at shutdown. That alone avoids thrust bearing stress—cheap insurance for a Pentek XE motor.
Key takeaway: One check at the pump, one at the house—placed smartly—solves 90% of check-related headaches.
#7. Controls, Wiring, and Splices—2-Wire vs 3-Wire, Control Box, and Wire Splice Kit
Controls live and die by layout. Keep moisture off contacts, give conductors breathing room, and use the right configuration.
Myers supports both 2-wire and 3-wire designs. For straightforward residential systems, a 2-wire well pump simplifies the pit—no external control box, fewer failure points, and an easy service path. For deeper wells or systems needing external start components, a 3-wire well pump with a matched control box is the right call. Use quality heat-shrink wire splice kits below grade—no tape-and-hope splices.
The Khuranas picked a 2-wire Myers Predator Plus at 230V—clean, reliable, and free of a box that could sweat in the pit.
Moisture-Proofing Your Box
If using a control box, mount it above grade in a ventilated, weather-tight enclosure, not on a damp pit wall. Keep drip loops on all wiring entries.
Wire Gauge and Voltage Drop
Match conductor size to HP, voltage, and distance. A long run to the well needs heavier gauge. Less drop equals cooler motors.
Grounding and Bonding
Bond all metallic components and run a proper equipment ground. Lightning seeks ground—make sure it’s not through your motor windings.
Key takeaway: Simpler circuits fail less. When you need complexity, install it like your water depends on it—because it does.
#8. Freeze-Proof and Drainage—Pitless Adapter, Well Cap, and Base Drain Strategy
Cold climates punish sloppy pits. Design for winter from day one.
A high-quality pitless adapter set below frost line keeps your lateral line safe. A sealed well cap prevents surface water and critters from turning your casing into a biology experiment. Grade the pit so water can’t pool; add a French drain or daylight drain if your soil holds moisture. Insulate exposed piping and never trap water in dead legs.
Oregon doesn’t see North Dakota cold, but the Khuranas had standing water in the pit after rains. We re-graded, added gravel, and dropped a small drain tile. No more winter ice rink around critical valves.
Weep Holes and Blow-Downs
Include a drain cock at the tank tee for service and winterization. Don’t drill mystery weep holes in drop pipe unless specified by design—it can cause unexpected issues.
Ventilate Without Flooding
Pits need a hint of air movement. Use screened vents at top grade while keeping bulk water out with proper lids and seals.
Insulate Smartly
Closed-cell insulation on exposed runs, and protect from rodent chewing. Where insulation wicks water, it becomes a sponge—avoid that.
Key takeaway: Dry, insulated, and sealed beats frozen, soggy, and shorted. Every time.
#9. Access, Serviceability, and Parts—Threaded Assembly, PSAM Myers Pump Parts, and Isolation Valves
A well pit that can’t be serviced isn’t finished. Plan for hands, wrenches, and future you.
Myers’ threaded assembly design is inherently service-friendly. Pair that with full-port isolation valves, unions, and a clean manifold, and you’ve built a pit that welcomes maintenance. Stocking common Myers pump parts and seal kits through PSAM Myers Pump channels means minimal downtime when something minor needs love.
When Amit replaced a sprinkler valve this spring, we isolated the house, bled the line, and he was back in business in under an hour—no swamp, no drama.
Layout For Space
Leave 18–24 inches of working clearance in front of the tank tee and pressure switch. Mount components at reachable heights.
Standardize Fittings
Use common sizes and thread patterns. Nothing strands a homeowner like an oddball fitting at 8 pm on a Saturday.
Document Your Build
Label valves, note precharge, switch settings, and pump model/HP/voltage inside the enclosure. Future you—or your contractor—will thank you.
Key takeaway: Service-friendly pits save you money the first time you touch them.
#10. Brand Matters—Why Myers Beats Thermoplastic, Dealer-Locked, and Short-Warranty Alternatives
A great pit can’t save a weak pump. This is where the Myers Pumps advantage delivers: 300 series stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, Pentek XE motor, 80%+ efficiency near BEP, and an industry-leading 3-year warranty. Add Made in USA quality and UL listed/CSA certified peace of mind. When PSAM ships the right pump same-day, emergencies stop being emergencies.
The Khuranas replaced a cracked thermoplastic budget unit with a Myers 1 HP, 10 GPM. With the pit dialed in, they’re on track for the 8–15 year lifespan we consistently see, with 20+ years not uncommon under excellent care.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Goulds and Franklin Electric
- Technical: Myers uses extensive 300 series stainless in shell, wear ring, and suction screen; Goulds models often rely on cast iron components that don’t love acidic or mineral-rich water. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging and engineered composite impellers resist grit abrasion better than conventional plastics. The Pentek XE motor in Myers packages balances thrust handling with lower amperage draw at duty point, often running cooler. Real-world: Myers’ field serviceable threaded assembly is contractor-friendly. Some Franklin Electric submersibles tie you to proprietary boxes and specialized dealer networks for parts and service. For rural owners, waiting days for the “right dealer” is more painful than the repair. Myers’ broader compatibility and PSAM stocking cut downtime. Value: Add 3-year warranty vs many 12–18 month competitors, and real ROI stacks up. Fewer failures, lower energy, and faster service access are worth every single penny.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Red Lion and Everbilt
- Technical: Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings can fatigue from pressure cycling and thermal swings; Myers stainless shells shrug those forces off. Budget Everbilt models often run standard bearings and impellers that don’t handle gritty starts; Myers’ self-lubricating impellers stay smooth longer. Real-world: In homes with irrigation or frequent start/stop events, budget pumps live short lives (3–5 years isn’t rare). Myers Predator Plus paired with a right-sized tank gives long, cool runs and minimal starts. Your electric bill and Saturday afternoons notice. Value: Spending once on a Myers vs twice on a budget brand inside 10 years? Add warranty coverage and fewer service calls and it’s obvious—worth every single penny.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Grundfos on Control Simplicity
- Technical: Some Grundfos lines encourage 3-wire configurations with added control complexity and cost. Myers offers robust 2-wire options that simplify installs, trim $200–$400 in box and wiring, and reduce failure points without sacrificing performance. Real-world: For homeowners who want reliable water and quick maintenance, fewer boxes equal fewer headaches. Contractors appreciate fewer callbacks. Value: Shorter install times, fewer components, and the same rock-steady delivery—worth every single penny.
Key takeaway: In a well pit designed the right way, a Myers pump is the dependable heart you build around.
FAQ: Expert Answers From the Pit
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with your targets: total GPM rating needed (household typically 7–12 GPM; add irrigation for 12–20 GPM) and your TDH (total dynamic head). TDH = static lift + drawdown + elevation to the pressure tank + friction losses + pressure requirement (2.31 feet per PSI; 50 PSI ≈ 115 feet). With TDH https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/solids-handling-sewage-pump-3-phase-2-hp-460v-908001.html and GPM, select a Myers Predator Plus model whose pump curve puts your duty point near the BEP. For example, a 220-foot TDH at 10 GPM commonly lands on a 1 HP submersible. If your well draws down seasonally, add that buffer. Rick’s recommendation: Call PSAM with your well log, pipe size, and a quick fixture count. We’ll match you to the right staging and horsepower with zero guesswork.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most single-family homes operate happily at 7–12 GPM. Add irrigation zones or a livestock hydrant and you’re in the 12–20 GPM conversation. A multi-stage pump like the Myers Predator Plus stacks impellers to build higher head (pressure) at a given flow. More stages deliver more head, which becomes pressure at the tank tee. Staging lets a 1 HP pump deliver 10 GPM at 200+ feet TDH without oversizing the motor. This keeps amperage and heat in check. Real-world: the Khuranas’ 1 HP 10 GPM handles showers, dishwasher, and a garden drip without a complaint. Pro tip: If you run multiple irrigation zones simultaneously, spec flow accordingly; don’t ask a 10 GPM pump to feed 15 GPM continuously.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency starts at the impeller and diffuser geometry. Myers designs its engineered composite impellers and flow passages to reduce recirculation losses and turbulence. Paired with a Pentek XE motor, the pump operates near BEP under real-world loads, not just on paper. Teflon-impregnated staging minimizes friction at wear surfaces, preserving tight clearances longer, which means the pump continues to run near optimal efficiency as it ages. Combine that with smart pipe sizing (1-1/4" discharge to the tank tee) and minimal elbows, and the total system stays efficient. The result for homeowners is 10–20% lower operating cost vs typical budget pumps and a cooler-running motor that lives longer.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submersibles live in an oxygen-poor, mineral-heavy environment. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and crevice corrosion where cast iron oxidizes, especially in wells with lower pH or higher iron/manganese. Stainless holds threads, seals, and wear surfaces true for years, preventing misalignment and micro-leaks. In pits with moisture and soil gases, stainless doesn’t flake or shed rust into water. For the Khuranas’ slightly acidic water, stainless for the shell, discharge bowl, and wear ring was non-negotiable. Rick’s recommendation: If your water test flags iron above 0.3 ppm or a pH below 7.0, stainless components in your pump and manifold are cheap insurance for long service life.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Fine abrasives act like lapping compound inside a pump. Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce surface friction, so particles are less likely to embed and score critical surfaces. The engineered composite used by Myers is tougher than standard plastics at the temperatures and pressures submersibles see. That keeps stage clearances tight and head production consistent, even in wells with occasional grit at startup. Add a spin-down filter at the house for systems that cough silt after heavy draws. Rick’s tip: If your well surges sand, consider a soft-start control and slightly bigger pressure tank to tame startup velocity.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
High-thrust design means the Pentek XE motor handles axial loads from multi-stage stacks without excess friction or heat. Windings optimized for 230V single-phase draw fewer amps for the same horsepower, especially when paired with the right wire gauge to limit voltage drop. Built-in thermal overload protection clips runaway heat events early, and lightning protection buffers spikes. The net is cooler winding temps and longer insulation life. In practice, that’s how a Myers 1 HP pulls steady, quiet duty at 10 GPM, 220–260 feet TDH, year after year. My field note: most failed motors I see cooked from voltage drop and short cycling—design the pit to avoid both.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
Capable DIYers with electrical and plumbing experience can install a Myers submersible well pump safely, especially in straightforward 2-wire systems. You’ll need a torque arrestor, wire splice kit, drop pipe, pitless adapter, and proper lifting gear. That said, code compliance, electrical safety, and well sanitation rules vary by state. Licensed contractors bring test equipment (megger tests for insulation), pullers, and the eye for common pitfalls (undersized wire, bad splices, mis-set tank precharge). Rick’s recommendation: If your well exceeds 150 feet, or you’re switching to 3-wire with a control box, hire a pro. PSAM can bundle the pump, tank tee kit, fittings, and controls so your contractor walks in with everything needed.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire configuration integrates start components in the motor housing—fewer parts above ground, simpler wiring, faster installs, and typically lower upfront cost. A 3-wire configuration uses an external control box (start capacitor/relay) mounted above ground. Advantages include easier diagnostics and sometimes better performance in very deep wells or challenging starts. Myers offers both; for residential systems up to ~300 feet, a 2-wire at 230V is my go-to. For specialized loads or deeper installs, 3-wire shines. Practical tip: In damp pits, fewer boxes mean fewer corrosion points. That’s why many homeowners prefer 2-wire simplicity.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
My premium installs see 8–15 years routinely, with 20–30 years not unheard of under excellent care. The keys: correctly matched HP to TDH, ample pressure tank drawdown to avoid short cycling, accurate wire gauge for low voltage drop, and periodic system checks (pressure, amperage, and visual inspections). The 3-year warranty on Myers gives a long runway compared to one-year coverage offered elsewhere. Field reality: pumps don’t “wear out” randomly; mis-sizing, electrical issues, or grit usually did the damage. Design the pit right and you’ll be replacing the kitchen faucet twice before thinking about the pump.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Quarterly: Check system pressure range, listen for rapid cycling, and inspect for moisture in the pit. Semiannually: Verify tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in), exercise isolation valves, tighten electrical terminations, and test surge protection. Annually: Inspect splice integrity, check amperage draw under load against nameplate, and flush any sediment filters. Every 3–5 years: Pull a water sample for iron, manganese, and pH to confirm materials remain compatible. Rick’s tip: Keep a log—pressure settings, precharge, amp draw, and service dates. Trends reveal issues early and keep your Myers deep well water pump running at BEP.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers offers an industry-leading 3-year warranty on many Predator Plus models, covering manufacturing defects and performance issues. That far exceeds the 12–18 month coverage I often see from competitors. It’s meaningful because most premature failures happen inside that window—and the coverage reflects confidence in 300 series stainless, Teflon-impregnated staging, and Pentek XE motors. Pair that with PSAM’s in-stock parts and we can turn around warranty decisions fast. Bottom line: the longer warranty and strong supply chain reduce your risk and total cost of ownership.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget submersibles can be tempting at checkout, but tally the lifecycle. A low-cost unit replaced twice in 10 years (plus labor, downtime, and higher electric due to lower efficiency) typically exceeds the price of one Myers water pump running efficiently for the entire decade. Add the soft costs—spoiled weekends, emergency calls, irrigation losses—and the gap widens. Myers’ 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, robust staging, and 3-year warranty age gracefully in the pit. I’ve watched homeowners spend two times on budget brands to end up where a Myers starts on day one.
Conclusion: Build the Pit Like the Pump Depends on It—Because It Does
Smart well systems aren’t accidents. They’re the sum of clear calculations, correct materials, and a layout that anticipates winter, service, and power bumps. When you design around TDH and GPM, upsize the pressure tank to flatten starts, simplify controls, right-size pipe and fittings, and drain and insulate the pit, you create a welcoming world for a Myers Predator Plus to live a long, quiet life.
For Amit and Priya Khurana, that meant a 1 HP Myers at 10 GPM, 230V, 1-1/4" discharge to a tidy manifold, a 62-gallon tank, a single serviceable check valve, and clean electrical in a dry, ventilated enclosure. Water on, stress off.
Ready to get it right? Call PSAM. We’ll size your myers submersible well pump, bundle the pressure tank, tank tee, pitless adapter, and every fitting you need, and ship same-day when you’re down. When your water supply is non-negotiable, Myers—properly installed—is worth every single penny.