Reliable water isn’t optional—it’s everything. When pressure drops to a whisper, faucets sputter air, and the shower turns icy, the problem is usually deeper than a clogged aerator. In my three decades sizing, installing, and rescuing systems, I’ve learned this: even the best pump gets blamed for what the accessories—or lack of them—caused. Without proper protection, fittings, tanks, and controls, you’re gambling with your water supply.
Two nights ago, I took a call from the Alemayehu family outside Pendleton, Oregon. Tomas (41), an agricultural drone tech, and his wife, Denise (39), a middle school science teacher, rely on a 240-foot private well for their home and small orchard. Their previous 1 HP Red Lion submersible cracked a thermoplastic stage after a surge event—third failure in five years. Their well produces moderate sand, their water table drops in August, and the last installer used a mismatched control box on a 3-wire unit. When the system finally died, the kitchen tap went dry halfway through rinsing apples. No backup. No buffer tank. No fun.
We upgraded Tomas and Denise to a Myers Predator Plus Series—1 HP, 10 GPM, 230V—with a matched Pentek XE motor, and we did it right. This guide walks you through the exact accessories I spec’d, why each part matters, and how to build a Myers system that runs quiet, efficient, and long. We’ll cover pressure tanks sized to your duty cycle, pitless adapters that won’t leak in February, torque arrestors that stop cable chafing, pressure switches that don’t weld shut, and the absolute must-have check valves for preventing hammer and backspin damage. Along the way, I’ll call out where Myers hardware outlasts common alternatives, plus PSAM’s fast-ship options for emergencies.
Let’s build your system the way I built theirs—once, correctly, with headroom and protection.
#1. Correctly Sized Pressure Tank – Stabilize Cycles and Protect Your Myers Pump with Proper Drawdown
A pressure tank is your pump’s shock absorber. Without enough drawdown, the pump short-cycles, motor heat builds, and service life shrinks fast—regardless of brand.
A good rule: match the tank to your pump’s GPM and duty cycle. For a submersible well pump like the Myers Predator Plus Series at 10 GPM, I target 1–2 minutes of runtime per myers sewage pump cycle. That means about 10–20 gallons of drawdown at a 40/60 setting. A nominal 44-gallon tank provides around 12–16 gallons drawdown, depending on model. For higher demand or irrigation, step up to 62–86 gallon nominal. Oversized beats undersized.
- Tomas and Denise ran a 20-gallon nominal tank: barely 5–6 gallons drawdown. Their pump cycled relentlessly filling their orchard totes. We installed a 62-gallon nominal tank and immediately cut cycle counts by over 50%.
Pre-Charge and Pressure Switch Pairing
Pre-charge the tank to 2 PSI below cut-in (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40/60 switch). Use an accurate gauge and check annually. Poor pre-charge equals rapid short cycling and diaphragm fatigue.
Tank Tee and Fittings Kit
A proper tank tee with gauge, drain, and relief valve streamlines service. I recommend stainless or brass. PSAM stocks complete tees to match 1-1/4" discharge and 1" house branch, simplifying installation.
Cycle Stop or Constant Pressure Add-On
For variable demand, a valve-based constant pressure setup can hold 50 PSI rock solid. It increases runtime and lowers starts. Use it with an appropriately sized tank—not to replace one.
Key takeaway: the right tank makes any pump look smarter and last longer. Start here.
#2. Brass Pressure Switch with Accurate Cut-In/Cut-Out – Fine-Tune System Pressure and Save the Motor
Your pressure switch is mission control. A reliable 40/60 or 30/50 switch holds steady pressure and limits start frequency. Choose UL-listed, field-adjustable switches sized for your amperage draw at 230V.
My top pick for Myers systems: sturdy contacts, clear spring calibration, and fully sealed housings. Set differential correctly—most residential installs run a 20 PSI differential.
- After their failure, Denise asked why the switch matters if “the pump does the work.” Because a welded contact can overrun a pump until thermal protection trips. The Pentek XE motor has thermal overload protection, but it’s not a substitute for a healthy switch.
Gauge and Snubber
Install a glycerin-filled gauge plus a snubber to dampen needle bounce. You’ll read real pressure and catch problems early.
Contact Protection
Surge events pit contacts. Add a small line surge protector at the switch or the main pump circuit. It’s cheap insurance.
Testing Routine
Twice a year: watch cut-in/cut-out points under flow, listen for chatter, and confirm contacts aren’t carbonized. Replace at the first sign of sticking.
Bottom line: precise switching keeps a Myers pump near its best efficiency point (BEP) and extends the motor’s life.
#3. Stainless Steel Pitless Adapter – Freeze-Proof, Leak-Free Transitions at the Casing
The pitless adapter makes a permanent, frost-proof horizontal exit from the casing to your house line. I insist on 300 series stainless steel for longevity—plastics and painted metals corrode or distort in freeze-thaw cycles.
Threaded connections, O-rings, and machined faces on a quality pitless prevent suction-side leaks (yes, submersibles still suffer from weeping joints that admit air and sabotage pressure). Match the size to your flow: 1-1/4" for 10–20 GPM systems is typical.
- Tomas had a pitted, undersized pitless with a mismatched gasket. We swapped to stainless, resealed the casing cap, and recovered 6 PSI at peak demand.
Well Cap and Venting
A sealed well cap with screened vent prevents critters and dust. It’s astonishing how much contamination enters through loose caps.
Discharge Orientation
Set the pitless at the appropriate depth below frost line. Ensure the horizontal run drains properly to avoid freeze pockets.
Pulling Hardware
Use a proper pulling tool or eye bolt rated for the assembly weight. Never trust a corroded pitless with a hand winch alone.
A solid pitless adapter is quiet protection. Install once, forget for decades.
#4. Dual Check Valve Strategy – Stop Backspin, Water Hammer, and Premature Wear
The check valve system is your doorman. A submersible like the Myers Predator Plus Series includes an internal check valve, but one high-quality brass or stainless check at the tank room prevents downstream backflow and keeps the column from draining during maintenance. On deep sets, add one more every 100 feet of vertical lift as needed—sparingly to avoid air locking.
Improper or failing checks cause backspin and violent water hammer at start. That’s hard on impellers and the threaded assembly. It’s also a reason many pumps “mysteriously” fail early.
- The Alemayehus had no external check. The line bled back and the pump took a run-up on every start. With a new stainless inline check at the tank tee, start-ups are clean and quiet.
Orientation and Access
Install the external check within 5–10 feet of the pressure tank, arrow toward the house, serviceable without cutting drop pipe.
Material Matters
Brass or stainless in domestic systems. Avoid thermoplastic units that warp with heat or age.
Start-Up Observation
Listen for hammer or chatter. If present, confirm vertical separation between checks and confirm the internal check is sealing.
Make checks a rule, not a suggestion. Your pump will thank you for years.
#5. Torque Arrestor and Cable Guard – Eliminate Cable Chafe and Pipe Whip on Start-Up
A submersible motor twists at start. That torque can slam the drop pipe against the casing and saw the cable through on rough edges. A torque arrestor acts like a rubber expansion standoff that centers the assembly; cable guards clip the wire neatly to the pipe at intervals, preventing slap and snagging.
I recommend a torque arrestor just above the pump and cable guards every 10–20 feet. On PVC drop, add more frequent guards. On steel drop, especially older casings, don’t skip this step.
- Denise noticed occasional electrical “blips” on well starts. The culprit? Chafed insulation from a bare cable rubbing near a joint. We re-pulled with cable guards, heat-shrunk crimps, and eliminated the nuisance trips.
Wire Splice Kit Quality
Use heat-shrink, adhesive-lined wire splice kits with proper crimp sleeves. Submersible-rated only. No electrical tape, ever.
Safety Rope Placement
Position the safety rope (polypropylene or stainless) alongside the cable under shared guards to avoid tangling during pulls.
Drop Pipe Compatibility
Set torque arrestor snug but not so tight that it restricts start movement. Confirm inflation type units are secured and centered.
A few dollars in standoffs protects thousands invested below the cap. It’s automatic on my installs.
#6. Drop Pipe and Unions – Schedule Quality, Correct Sizing, and Serviceable Joints
Your drop pipe carries the load—literally. Choose materials based on depth and water chemistry. For most 240-foot residential sets, Schedule 120 PVC or galvanized/304 stainless steel works well. I prefer Schedule 120 PVC with stainless couplings where corrosion is a concern and budgets matter. Always use thread sealant suitable for potable systems.
Serviceability counts. Install a union or true union ball valve near the tank tee for quick isolation and maintenance. A 1-1/4" discharge size is standard for 10–20 GPM systems to keep velocity under 5 ft/s and reduce friction loss.
- Tomas’ prior installer used thin-wall pipe. We increased to 1-1/4" Sch 120 and gained measurable pressure at the upstairs shower—less friction, more satisfaction.
Support and Spacing
Space couplers consistently. Mark pipe with footage as you assemble for easy re-pull documentation.
Thermal Expansion
In long horizontal runs, include an expansion-friendly layout and avoid hard alignment that strains fittings.
Pulling Heads and Clamps
Use correct pipe clamps and a lifting plate. Never vice-grip a pipe you care about reusing.
Right-sized pipe prevents “mystery” pressure losses and makes future service painless.
#7. Electrical Protection and Control Box Best Practices – Keep the Pentek XE Motor Healthy
Even with a 2-wire well pump, proper overcurrent protection and surge mitigation are non-negotiable. Myers pairs beautifully with the Pentek XE motor—high-thrust, lightning protection, and efficient windings. Protect that investment.
Use a dedicated 230V circuit, correct breaker size per motor plate, and watertight conduit. Ground the casing. Label the disconnect. For 3-wire well pump setups, use a matched, outdoor-rated control box. Mismatching a control box to a motor’s capacitance is a silent efficiency killer.
- The Alemayehus’ old system used a bargain control box that overstressed start capacitors. Post-upgrade, their amp draw dropped into spec and start-ups went whisper quiet.
Surge Suppression
Add a Type 2 surge protector at the panel and a plug-on device at the pump circuit. Lightning is a frequent offender in rural areas.
Voltage Drop Check
Measure voltage under load at the well head. Long runs need upsized conductors; keep voltage drop under 5% to protect windings.
Thermal and Overload Devices
The motor’s integral thermal protection is your last line of defense, not the first. Ensure breakers and fuses match motor nameplate.
Solid power equals long life. Don’t skip the control details.
#8. Sediment Filtration and Intake Screen Strategy – Protect Teflon-Impregnated Staging from Grit
Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers handles fine sand better than typical composites, but no pump should chew rocks. Pair the pump’s intake screen and careful set depth with proper filtration.
Start with the well log. If sand is present, set the pump 10–20 feet above the screen and at least a full casing length off the bottom. In the house, add a spin-down sediment filter or backwashable media filter ahead of softer/UV systems.
- We lifted Tomas’ set point 15 feet, installed a 100-mesh spin-down ahead of his fixtures, and kept his new pump stages clean. Flow improved once the filter caught the initial purge.
Purge and Flush
After installation, run to waste until water clears. Don’t send slag and drilling fines through your plumbing.
Service Interval
Check sediment bowls weekly for the first month, then monthly. Note changes after heavy irrigation.
Bypass Plumbing
Use a three-valve bypass around filters so the house isn’t offline during service.
Keep particles out and your pump’s engineered surfaces will do their job for a decade-plus.
#9. Freeze Protection and Drain-Down – Eliminate Burst Risk at Transitions and Seasonal Lines
In cold regions, simple freeze planning saves a lot of copper. Insulate the well head, heat tape exposed runs where code allows, and most importantly, provide drain-down points on lines feeding barns, hydrants, or seasonal spigots.
Install a frost-proof yard hydrant on a gravel sump, not mud. At the tank tee, include a boiler drain for fast winterization. If your pitless is shallow by legacy design, plan a spring upgrade—frozen laterals are a January tradition I don’t recommend.
- Denise’s orchard loop now has a ball valve and drain cock. She can isolate and drain the branch in five minutes without touching the home supply.
Heat Cable and Thermostat
Self-regulating heat cable with a thermostat on short exposed sections prevents nuisance freezes. Use only on suitable pipe materials.
Insulated Covers
Valve boxes and hydrant heads benefit from insulated sleeves or enclosures, especially during wind events.
Backflow Considerations
Keep anti-siphon and vacuum breakers in place. Winter-proof them or swap to frost-rated models.
A few smart valves and heat cable beats a midwinter excavation every time.
#10. System Monitoring: Gauge, Flow Meter, and Leak Alarms – Catch Problems Before They Break Your Streak
What you measure, you maintain. A simple gauge at the tank tee, a turbine-style flow meter in high-use systems, and a basement leak alarm transform guesswork into decisions.
Pressure that falls slowly over weeks can point to a seeping check. Flow that declines under constant tank pressure hints at plugged filters. Pair a power-on indicator at the well circuit with a runtime hour meter, and you can predict service intervals like a pro.
- Tomas checks his flow meter monthly. When orchard demand spikes, he sees it and cleans filters preemptively—no surprises, no midnight calls.
Runtime Hour Meter
Track total hours to estimate pump wear and schedule inspections at logical intervals.
Smart Leak Sensors
Wi-Fi leak alarms near the tank tee and water heater text your phone if something drips. Cheap, effective.
Data Logging
A simple spreadsheet with monthly PSI, GPM, and filter changes builds a maintenance history that saves money.
Knowing beats reacting—every time.
#11. Constant Pressure Valve or Booster – Smooth Performance for Multi-Story and Irrigation Loads
Not every home needs variable speed drives. For many residential systems, a valve-based constant pressure solution paired with a booster pump (when needed) delivers steady showers and consistent irrigation zones without complexity. Use with your Myers Pump submersible to lock at 50–60 PSI under changing flows.
Size the valve to your GPM and confirm your TDH (total dynamic head) keeps the pump within its pump curve. For homes with long runs or elevation change, a small in-house booster on the main riser can flatten out second-floor complaints.
- The Alemayehus wanted steady pressure while running the dishwasher and irrigating. A constant pressure valve with their upgraded tank eliminated fluctuating spray at the sink.
Bypass and Serviceability
Plumb valves with unions and a bypass. You’ll thank me during a future cleaning or replacement.
Heat and Noise
Install on the cool side of the mechanical room. Keep line velocities below 5 ft/s to cut noise.
Curve Check
Verify that at your desired pressure, your stages are working inside the sweet spot. Avoid running off the right edge of the curve.
Steady pressure makes a premium system feel premium, every day.
#12. Warranty Registration, Documentation, and Spare Parts Kit – Plan for the Next 10–15 Years
A great system deserves great recordkeeping. Register your Myers Predator Plus for the 3-year warranty and file your pump curve, set depth, wire size, breaker size, and tank model. Keep a small spare parts kit: pressure switch, gauge, relief valve, sediment filter elements, splice kit, and a spare check valve.
- Denise keeps photos of the well head and tank tee with labeled valves. When I troubleshoot over the phone, we’re speaking the same language.
PSAM File and Support
At Plumbing Supply And More, we save your installation details so when you call three years later, we know your exact setup. That pays off during emergencies.
Service Intervals
Create reminders: tank pre-charge check every 6 months, filter cleaning monthly, electrical inspection annually, flow/pressure log monthly.
Emergency Plan
If water stops at 10 PM, who do you call? Keep PSAM’s number and your local contractor posted near the tank.
Prepared owners spend less and enjoy more uptime—simple truth.
Focused Competitor Comparisons You Should Know
When performance and longevity matter, construction and serviceability win.
Myers builds the Predator Plus with widespread use of 300 series stainless steel—from shell to discharge bowl, shaft, and suction screen—so the pump resists acidic water and mineral-rich conditions that corrode cast iron. In contrast, certain Goulds residential models incorporate cast iron that can pit and scale in aggressive water. Myers pairs that with Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers, which shrug off fine grit that would score conventional composites. Add the Pentek XE motor—high-thrust, energy efficient, with lightning protection—and you have a drivetrain designed for long service. Real-world impact? Fewer teardown cycles, lower amperage under load, and stable curves near BEP.
Installation and maintenance tell the rest of the story. Myers’ field serviceable and threaded assembly design means qualified contractors can replace wear items on-site, rather than swapping the whole unit. Goulds and some Grundfos configurations can box you into pricier service paths or proprietary accessories. Over 8–15 years, that difference stacks up in both downtime and parts cost. For rural families who can’t “wait for town,” that’s worth every single penny.
Another common decision point is controls. Franklin Electric builds solid motors, but many Franklin submersible packages lean on proprietary control box ecosystems and dealer-only networks for diagnosis and parts. Myers offers flexible 2-wire configuration options that eliminate the external box entirely for certain depths and horsepower ranges, trimming $200–$400 from upfront hardware without sacrificing performance. With a matched Myers/Pentek build, you get clean starts, tight amperage, and simple troubleshooting using standard meters. Over the pump’s life, reduced component count equals fewer failure points and less time without water. For homeowners like Tomas and Denise—who went from a three-part spaghetti of mismatched controls to a streamlined Myers system—the immediate clarity and lower maintenance burden are worth every single penny.
Finally, materials and warranty protection draw a line between budget and professional-grade. Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings, while affordable, are vulnerable to thermal and pressure cycling—exactly what killed the Alemayehus’ last unit. Myers uses stainless steel throughout and backs it with a true 3-year warranty, not the 12–18 months that’s typical in the value tier. Factor in an expected 8–15 years of service, with well-kept systems pushing 20–30 years, and the total cost of ownership lands decisively in Myers’ favor. When your family’s water depends on the next start cycle, that peace of mind is worth every single penny.
FAQ: Rick’s Field-Tested Answers
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with your static water level, pumping water level, total lift to the pressure tank, and target pressure (e.g., 50 PSI ≈ 115 feet of head). Add friction loss from pipe size and length. Then match that TDH and desired flow (8–12 GPM is typical for a home) to the Myers pump curve. For a 150–250 ft well and a two-bath home, a 1 HP Predator Plus at 10 GPM often hits the sweet spot in BEP. Larger homes, irrigation, or higher elevation may require 1.5 HP. Always cross-check amperage at 230V and ensure wire sizing keeps voltage drop under 5%. Field tip: if you run irrigation while the home is active, plan headroom—better a slightly larger pump loafing at BEP than a marginal pump screaming off-curve. PSAM can run the numbers with your well log and fixture count.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes are comfortable at 8–12 GPM. Large families with irrigation or livestock may need 12–20 GPM. Multi-stage pump design stacks several impellers and diffusers in series to increase pressure capability (head) at a given horsepower. That’s how a deep well pump like the Predator Plus delivers 250–490 ft shut-off head depending on stages. The more stages, the more head; the larger impeller trims, the more flow at lower head. We pick the stage count so your operating point lands near BEP—where hydraulic efficiency is highest (Myers hits 80%+). This means lower energy bills and cooler running motors. Your pressure tank and pressure switch then convert that head into consistent, usable water pressure.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency is the sum of design choices. Myers uses engineered composite impellers with Teflon-impregnated staging to minimize internal friction. The Pentek XE motor provides high-thrust bearings and tight tolerances, reducing mechanical losses. Matched 300 series stainless steel components hold geometry under pressure, preserving clearances across years of heat cycles. Many budget pumps compromise on impeller surface finish and bearing quality, which drags efficiency down. Operated at or near BEP, Myers converts more electrical energy into water movement—often shaving 10–20% off annual energy cost versus comparable flow models. Real-world: a 10 GPM, 1 HP unit at 230V drawing nameplate amps and delivering the curve point consistently is how you know you’re in the high-efficiency zone.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submerged components face oxygen-deprived, mineral-rich water. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting, chloride attack, and acidic conditions better than cast iron. While cast iron is strong, its graphite structure invites corrosion and scale buildup that can choke flow paths and bind wear rings. Stainless maintains smooth surfaces and precise threaded assembly interfaces, keeping hydraulic performance stable over time. In Oregon’s basalt aquifers, iron and manganese are common; stainless avoids the heavy rusting I see in iron-bodied pumps within a few seasons. Long-term, stainless reduces friction losses and helps the pump stay on its curve, protecting both energy costs and run life.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Fine abrasives scour conventional plastics and erode clearances, leading to lower head and noisy operation. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging embeds low-friction material into the impeller/diffuser surfaces. Combined with self-lubricating impellers, abrasive particles are less likely to “bite,” and surfaces run cooler with fewer micro-welds. This improves start torque, protects nitrile rubber bearings, and keeps the stack aligned. Add an appropriate intake screen and smart set depth above the well bottom, and you dramatically reduce wear rates. In sandy wells, this technology can be the difference between 4–5 year replacements and decade-long service.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
Thrust is the axial load from stacked impellers pushing water upward. The Pentek XE motor uses high-capacity thrust bearings, precision rotor balance, and optimized winding geometry to minimize electrical and mechanical losses. Built-in thermal overload protection and lightning protection safeguard the windings during abuse events. The result: clean starts, stable amp draw, and cooler operation. On the meter, expect nameplate amps at duty with headroom—your best indicator the motor-pump match is right. When paired with Myers hydraulics, this motor architecture is a big reason the Predator Plus holds 80%+ efficiency near BEP.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
DIY is possible for skilled homeowners with the right tools, safety gear, and a second set of hands. You’ll need a pulling rig or tripod, torque arrestor, wire splice kit, safety rope, and proper pitless adapter tools. Electrical work requires code knowledge—correct breaker sizing, grounding, and control box selection (if 3-wire). Many states require licensed contractors for well work; check local regulations. My rule: if your set depth exceeds 150 feet or you lack lifting equipment, hire a pro. The risk of dropping a pump or damaging the casing isn’t worth it. PSAM can supply complete kits and connect you with vetted installers.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire configuration integrates starting components in the motor; it simplifies installation, reduces parts count, and often cuts $200–$400 by eliminating the external control box. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with start/run capacitors and a relay—handy for service access and certain deep-set, high HP applications. Myers offers both. For 1/2 to 1 HP residential sets at moderate depth, 2-wire is a clean, reliable choice. For 1.5 HP and deeper sets, 3-wire can offer diagnostic clarity and robust starts. Match configuration to depth, amperage, and your service preference—PSAM will help you pick the right path.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With clean power, appropriate pressure tank sizing, sediment management, and periodic checkups, expect myers well pump 8–15 years. I see well-cared-for systems run 20+ years. Keep pre-charge correct, inspect electrical terminations annually, and log flow and pressure monthly. The 3-year warranty covers defects early on; your maintenance preserves performance long after. Tomas and Denise are set up for the long run—adequate drawdown, sediment filtration, and a top-shelf motor mean low stress and cool operation, which equals longevity.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Semiannual: verify tank pre-charge (2 PSI below cut-in), inspect pressure switch contacts, check for leaks at the tank tee. Quarterly: clean sediment filters, flush spin-downs, verify gauge accuracy. Annual: test voltage under load at the well head, tighten electrical connections, inspect surge protection. Ongoing: track GPM and PSI in a simple log; sudden changes signal issues early. Set reminders. A 10-minute checkup beats a $2,000 emergency any day.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces many brands that offer 12–18 months in this class. It covers manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for the pump and matched motor when installed per guidelines. Keep proof of purchase and installation details—depth, voltage, and tank specs. The lengthy coverage reflects confidence in the Predator Plus Series, 300 series stainless steel build, and Pentek XE motor reliability. Pair it with PSAM’s support and fast shipping for replacements and you get a dependable safety net.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Consider purchase price, energy use, expected lifespan, and downtime. A budget thermoplastic unit may cost less upfront but often runs 4–6 years with lower efficiency. A Myers Pump operating near BEP can trim energy by up to 20% and run 8–15 years. Add fewer service calls due to field serviceable design and better materials, and the math tilts hard toward Myers. Over a decade, you’re likely buying one Myers instead of two budget pumps—plus you’re not bathing in surprises. That’s real savings and real comfort.
Conclusion: Build It Once, Build It Right—Myers + PSAM Accessories
Accessories aren’t extras—they are the system. The right pressure tank, check valve strategy, pitless adapter, torque arrestor, and protective controls turn a great Myers Predator Plus into a decade-long water solution. Stainless materials, Teflon-impregnated staging, and the Pentek XE motor give you the platform; PSAM’s curated accessories and field guidance complete it.
Tomas and Denise now have quiet starts, steady 50 PSI showers, clean irrigation, and a system log that keeps them ahead of problems. That’s what a properly accessorized Myers installation feels like.
If you’re upgrading or in an emergency, call PSAM. We’ll size your pump, pick the right accessories, ship fast, and stand behind the setup. Myers Pumps deliver the reliability; our job is making sure your system does too—day one and year ten.